Hasselblad: My Latest Film Camera Shopping Spree

Hasselblad 501CM, PME-5 Meter Prism, 40mm CF, and 100mm CF.

If you read the blog entry about my experience buying a new Rolleiflex Hy6 a few years ago, then you already know it was not a pleasant affair. I have been able to fix or work around the Hy6’s multitude of problems and I do use it, but it’s not a system I will be investing any more money in. The automation of the Hy6 is wonderful, but questionable reliability, lack of domestic repair options, and scarcity of indispensable accessories like film backs makes it a poor choice going forward.

In the past, I had done some research into Hasselblad and Bronica SLRs, so I wasn’t jumping into it cold. I was impressed by both systems, but ultimately decided to go with the Hasselblad V-series. It has an excellent reputation, a full line of Ziess optics. a large user base, is readily available in quantity from multiple sellers on the used market, and can be serviced by a number of domestic repair facilities.

What to Buy

I quickly narrowed the search to either a 501CM or a 503CW body which are newer members of the V family and have a few improvements over earlier models that are nice to have, but not essential. Also on my shopping list was a meter prism, a waist level finder and an A12 film magazine. I planned to start with two lenses. Since the 40mm lens for my Hy6 was recently declared unrepairable (at least domestically) due to the unavailability of parts, I decided that I would definitely be getting a 40mm Distagon lens for the Hassy. I also decided against getting the usual 80mm kit lens since I already had an 80mm lens for the Hy6. Instead I decided on the 100mm Planar lens which has impressive MTF curves. I went with CF rather than C lenses because I didn’t want lenses that were more than 40 years old. I can see myself getting a 60mm lens in the future.

Where to Buy

I gave a lot of thought about how to mitigate the risks of buying used equipment. In the end, I settled on buying everything from KEH in Atlanta for multiple reasons.

  1. They had everything I wanted.
  2. They have a 6 month warranty and an in-house repair facility.
  3. Having a sizable inventory, they are able to replace an item if it falls short of expectations.
  4. They have a 21 day return policy.
  5. They have a generally good reputation and I’ve had good experiences with their repair shop.
  6. They are are domestic, so they are subject to US law.
  7. They sell on ebay and with feedback from >100,000 transactions.

There are two downsides to shopping at KEH:

  1. First, they don’t provide actual pictures of items for sale, instead opting to use generic pictures of the product. For me, that was not a trivial shortcoming, but it was outweighed by the benefits. Given their large inventory and turnover, I can understand why they don’t provide a full batch of pictures of every individual item. Furthermore, I also don’t think pictures of the actual item are a substitute for a good reputation and a buyer friendly return policy.
  1. Second, they don’t list serial numbers for camera bodies and lenses, so you can’t look them up and find out how old they are. This can be helpful if it allows you to determine whether an item is ten years old or 30 years old. An older item may be more likely to need service for decaying seals or gummy lubricants. But, not all manufacturers provide a means to cross-reference serial numbers with manufacture date, so this is limited only to some brands.

I am not suggesting that KEH is the only reliable source of used analog equipment. Hasselblad is one of several MF systems where used equipment is plentiful and available from numerous reputable sellers with hassle free return policies. Competition is our friend. But, for the equipment I was shopping for, KEH offered several options for each item on my list, with different price point and condition ratings. No other seller I looked at matched KEH in that regard. They must have a considerable inventory.

Buying used carries a risk that the camera may have problems and may need service the moment it arrives. Sellers often don’t recognize defects in items they sell or hope the buyer won’t notice them. With their in-house repair facility KEH has the capacity to rectify such problems should any arise.

Other used equipment sellers include Roberts Camera (UsedPhotoPro), Samy’s Camera, and Cambridge World (which also has a repair shop, but doesn’t appear to list condition ratings on many items). If you buy pricy equipment direct from any merchant, I recommend you check that seller’s feedback from buyers on ebay. If they don’t sell on ebay, it may be because they’re unwilling to comply with ebay’s customer protection policy.

One thing I made up my mind not to do is purchase from Japanese sellers on ebay. I’ve seen too many of their listings where they rate a product as EXC+++++, but then note that lens haze, which can easily render a lens useless, does not factor into their condition ratings. While many accept returns, dealing with international shipping and customs just increases the cost, risk, and hassle of returning an item. Furthermore, many Japanese sellers have limited buyer feedback, which makes me think they just create new accounts when they get too many bad ratings. While some buyers swear by them, buying from Japan is not for me when there are reputable US sellers with buyer feedback in the tens or hundreds of thousands.

Pulling the Trigger

The Hasselblad 501CM, accessories, and lenses that I ordered were well packed, arrived quickly, and all worked right out of the box. I made it a point of selecting items that KEH had rated EX or better. I wasn’t bargain hunting. I was willing to pay for items that, while not perfect, were in good working order.

The only problems I encountered were a somewhat stiff focus on the lenses and slightly sticky mirror-up button on the body. The mirror up button loosened up within a few frames and hasn’t reoccurred since. The focus on the 40mm lens now turns quite smoothly just from use since I got it. The 100mm lens is still stiffer than what I’m used to, but not enough to warrant sending it in for a CLA. Cosmetically, I was pleased with everything the moment I unpacked it. I couldn’t have expected it to be in better condition if I had owned it myself. After several days of rigorous testing, I was unable to find any functions that didn’t work. That was impressive and it suggests KEH is better than average at rating the condition of items they sell. It was the exact opposite of the experience I had with the factory fresh Rolleiflex Hy6 in 2020.

  • The body, lenses, and accessories looked nearly new, inside and out.
  • No light leaks.
  • The film back didn’t scratch the film.
  • The focusing was spot-on and out to infinity at full aperture.
  • The frame spacing is even with no overlapping frames.

I went through several rolls of film hunting for defects. There were none.

About Focusing Screens

The 501CM camera body came with a 42204 Acute-Matte D focusing screen which has no focusing aids. During the focus testing phase, I ordered a BrightScreen with microprism and split image focusing aids specifically because the 40mm lens has such extreme depth of field that it’s hard to focus precisely even on a flat contrasty target for focus testing purposes. While I prefer the Acute-Matte D over the BrightScreen for viewing, the focusing aids are indispensable for me. Ideally, I’d like to get an Acute-Matte D with focusing aids such as the 42215 or 42217, but they are outrageously expensive compared to the $100 BrightScreen. The BrightScreen is not a bad screen, by any means. It looks very similar to the screen that came with My RB-67 Pro S that I used without issue for decades. Also, the BrightScreen with the supplied shims, focused identically to the Acute-Matte. I couldn’t have been happier about that.

Bottom Line

I thought long and hard about how to reduce the risk of buying used equipment. For expensive items, I have limited my ebay purchases to reputable domestic sellers that accept returns and have a well established track record. I have also lowered my expectations of getting an item in good usable condition at a bargain price. I am now willing to pay more to get more.

A merchant who plans to be in business for the long term protects his reputation by pleasing customers and nurturing repeat business. There are good arguments for buying from KEH and, as long as they are a reliable seller with a commitment to customer satisfaction, I will continue to shop there. The worst thing you can do is just assume a seller is honest and hope for the best.

This is, of course, just one man’s opinion.

First Pictures From The Hasselblad

After shooting a few test rolls of film to check shutter seeds, apertures, focusing and other functions on the 501CM, I took it on a local outing in downtown Huntsville, Alabama. While I took both the 40mm and 100mm lens, the only lens I used was the 40mm. While optically not as good as the later (and much more pricy) Hasselblad IF CFE lens, it has about half the distortion. Since I shoot urban landscapes and Photoshop can’t fix a darkroom print, straight lines are important to me. One setting if the FLE covers the range of 2 meters to infinity, so I didn’t find much need to change it for the kind of shooting I do.

Need I mention that Hasselblad doesn’t make any cockamamie claims that their lenses are only designed to focus out to the hyperfocal distance?

Below are a few shots from that excursion. All are scans of darkroom prints with 8″ x 8″ images on Ilford Cooltone RC paper from Tri-X and Delta 400 negatives developed in Ilfosol 3 (my first experience with that developer).

Defective Right Out of the Box

Serious Quality Control Failings with New Rolleiflex and Leica Film Cameras

Leica M-A and Rolleiflex Hy6 Mod2

I have never been able to afford high end German cameras, but I always wanted one. Almost all the cameras I have owned were from Japanese companies like Nikon, Minolta, and Mamiya.

Finally, in October 2020, being retired and having some cash available, I purchased a new Rolleiflex Hy6 Mod2 system from the US distributor and a new Leica MP and lens from Camera West. Since 1966, I have purchased many cameras, new and used, but these two recent purchases were the first time I ever bought a camera that was defective right out of the box. The Rolleiflex wouldn’t focus correctly and the Leica MP meter wouldn’t automatically turn off after the time-out. These were also the first cameras I purchased that included little cards, signed by hand, letting me know how committed the manufacturer was to reliability.

Personally signed quality control assurance cards

Long Story Short: Rolleiflex Hy6

Rolleiflex Hy6 with 80mm, 50mm, and 40mm lenses

Seven days after receiving it, I sent the Hy6 to DW Photo in Germany and, within 3 hours of Fedex delivering it to them, they sent me an email declaring that I had an incorrect menu setting on the camera. After arguing with them for a few weeks, I paid the bill of 320 € to get it back. After receiving it back, I confirmed that the camera still wouldn’t focus, but it turned out that someone much smarter than me on the Photrio forums had the identical Hy6 focusing issue and corrected it by adjusting the film pressure plate position. In fact, the serial number on my film back differed from his by a single count, so they were likely assembled at the factory on the same day. Thanks to him, I was able to repair my Hy6 the same way.

Rolleiflex Hy6 6×6 Film Back

Think about it: If not for “that guy on the internet”, I would be stuck with a very expensive paper weight. Since then, myself and others have discovered other issues in common with our Hy6 cameras. These include light leaks, film transport issues, scratching of film (which defies solution to this day), and the interesting claim from Rolleiflex that 6000 series and Hy6 lenses are not designed to focus out to infinity, but only as far as the hyperfocal distance. As far as I know, Rolleiflex is the only high end camera manufacturer that lays claim to that unique feature (or bug, depending on whether you want distant objects to be sharp in your images). One recent Hy6 seller on ebay noted in the description that the focus “is soft at infinity at any aperture wider than f/11ish” and that’s after having had the pressure plate adjusted at the factory soon after buying it in late 2020.

Long Story Short: Leica M-A

Leica with 50mm Sumilux and 28mm Elmarit

I sent the Leica MP back to Camera West for a refund and bought a new Leica M-A through B&H Photo. Later, after more thorough testing at wide apertures, I discovered that that the new 50mm Summilux has a case of front focus. A 28mm Elmarit, purchased shortly thereafter, works fine. By this time, having read all the horror stories of people having had to send their Leicas back to Leica (New Jersey or Germany) multiple times to get them properly repaired under warranty, I decided to adjust the range finder to accommodate the defective 50mm lens out to about 70 feet which is about as far out as it will focus. While that means the rangefinder is not accurate for the 28mm f2.8 lens, the depth of field will cover the error for my purposes. For distances beyond 70 feet, the rangefinder is useless. Close focusing (1-10 meters) for the 50mm is now quite accurate wide open and is also fine for the 28mm. At apertures of 4.8 and above, the 50mm lens works reasonably well at all distances if you’re aware of the quirks of the maladjusted rangefinder.

The End of an Era

Nikon F6, Leica M-A, and Rolleiflex Hy6 — How much longer can they last?

I don’t dispute that there are many happy Leica and Hy6 owners, but I don’t think I am alone in being frustrated by problems with new cameras and atrocious customer service. I don’t believe there is sufficient sales volume anymore to support the manufacturing cost of high end film cameras. The companies that have remained in production this long most likely had to cut costs resulting in a diminished level of quality control during factory assembly and service.

Leica and Rolleiflex have a long history of turning out top notch film cameras and their optics are unsurpassed. You cannot hold these cameras in your hands and not marvel at the caliber of engineering they embody, but the production defects and poor customer service I’ve encountered have completely knocked the shine off the joy of owning and using them. I baby them because I don’t have much confidence that they can be properly repaired by the manufacturers without it becoming an ordeal and I don’t plan to invest anymore money in them for additional lenses or other accessories. Hy6 film backs, which seem to be where the bulk of their problems lie, are as common as unicorns used and outrageously expensive new.

Before buying the Leica and Hy6, I took it for granted that new cameras worked right out of the box because that had been my experience for over 50 years. No camera company is perfect, but I got a new Nikon F6 in 2019 at half the cost of a Leica or Hy6. It has no problems or quirks. The F6 was discontinued in late 2020, but I just bought a new lens for it and never worried that it wouldn’t work fine right out of the box. I wasn’t disappointed. I will never have that level of confidence in Rolleiflex or Leica, despite their little hand-signed inspection/test cards. My reason for buying new was to avoid the risks and “surprises” of buying used, so if I knew a year ago what I know now, I would not have purchased either of them.  Both cameras, if they work properly, are a pleasure to use, but the experiences I’ve had are not something I would ever care to repeat.

For Potential Buyers

It’s human nature to want to feel good about something you already own or are about to buy, making it easy to reject contrary views. Most product reviews available on the internet are little more than a thinly disguised sales pitches, describing features and telling you what you want to hear. If you are thinking about buying a new Leica or Hy6 film camera, I hope things go well for you, but I have a few suggestions to offer:

  1. Above all, buy only from a seller that has a written policy of accepting returns if you’re not satisfied. Don’t assume that they are as customer-friendly as reputable retailers like B&H Photo, Amazon, and Adorama.  Even ebay provides more buyer protection than merchants who simply claim, “Don’t worry.  I’ll take care of you.”
  2. If you buy pricy equipment direct from any merchant, I recommend you check that merchant’s feedback from buyers on ebay. If they don’t sell through ebay, it may be because they’re unwilling to comply with ebay’s customer protection policies.
  3. Insist on a written warranty that tells you where you have to send the camera for repairs and under what circumstances you’re required to pay for shipping and service costs within the warranty period.
  4. After you get your new camera, check it out completely, including functions you’ll rarely use. Check the focusing accuracy by shooting a roll or two of film with the lens at maximum aperture, both at close distances and at infinity. In the case of the Hy6, be sure to have the lens at maximum aperture when you do the lens offset determination.
  5. Shine an LED flashlight through any any lens you buy that was advertised as new. It should be virtually free of haze, dust, and fungus, particularly on inner surfaces. Compare it with other lenses you have.
  6. Finally, if you want more detail on Hy6 issues that I and others have been contending with, you can scan through comprehensive discussion threads here and here.

My Test Data

Three sets of test data follow, each described in PDF form with links to full size negative scans. This may not be meaningful to anyone who doesn’t have a Hy6, but may be useful for someone with a Hy6 who is experiencing similar focusing errors.

  1. The first set is the test pictures and data sent to the factory with the camera to illustrate the auto focusing problem as well as pictures to show that the camera wouldn’t even manually focus at infinity with all three lenses (80mm, 50mm, and 40mm) even with the lens manually set to infinity.

Hy6 Focusing Tests Sent To Factory

  1. The second set of tests was conducted after the Hy6 was returned from the factory, showing that the focusing problems remain exactly as they were before the camera was sent to the factory. In other words, they did nothing to fix it and, to add insult to injury, charged me 320 € to get it back.

Hy6 Focus Tests after return from factory

  1. The third set of tests was conducted after adjusting the pressure plate gap from 0.70 mm to 0.30 mm, showing that adjustment fixed the auto and manual focus problems. It should be noted that the adjustment also fixed the infinity focus as expected. The narrowing of the pressure plate gap to 0.30mm has never caused an issue with uneven frame spacing or stalling of the motor drive, problems which I suspect are more likely related to the binding of the spool hubs on the film insert.

Hy6 Focus Tests after I adjusted pressure plate

DISCLAIMER

I do not recommend attempting to fix camera problems yourself.  It could damage the camera and/or void the warranty.  On the other hand, some people are quite comfortable repairing their own cameras.  I am not one of those people but, with the Hy6, I was left with little choice. With regard to the Leica, there was a lot of information on the web about rangefinder adjustments because rangefinder problems are a common complaint on Leica analog and digital cameras. Also, there is no disassembly required to access the basic adjustments.

Got Haze?

My RB-67 Got Haze.

Earlier this year I pulled my old RB-67 out to admire it and noticed that the 127mm lens had developed a nasty case of the haze.   While doing some internet research, I found that there is a guy on Youtube who makes disassembling Mamiya lenses look easy.  After collecting a few needed tools, I took the lens apart to find that the haze was between elements that were glued together and mounted in a metal collar.  In fact, there were two such lens pairs in the lens, one in front of the shutter and one behind.  Both were fogged.

My first solution was to buy a used lens on ebay, upgrading from my Mamiya-Sekor C lens to the better K/L version.  The one I bought was specifically described with words like “Near Mint” and “no haze”.  Unfortunately, it did have haze, so I returned it, very much discouraged from trying to find a replacement on ebay.

My next solution was to send the lens to a repair center that told me they could separate cemented elements and re-glue them.  But, when I sent them the lens, they told me they couldn’t do it because of the way the elements were sealed in the metal collar.

Enter the Wizard.

So, I turned to the Photrio forums where a poster named Charles Monday, (aka shutterfinger) suggested that heating the cemented elements in an oven would very likely clear the haze by softening the Canada balsam cement between the elements.  I was skeptical, but eventually I decided to give it a shot.

It worked.

I don’t mean it worked a little bit.  I mean, I had to struggle to find any remnants of haze.  I decided to create a short blog post to tell the story because, in a search of ebay listings for about twenty 127mm Mamiya lenses, all but two of them were described as having some haze.  I’m sure this condition affects other lens brands and I’m sure this remedy will be equally applicable to other old lenses, but I only have experience with my one RB-67 lens and I wanted to do my part to spread the word to other RB/RZ-67 owners that this really works to substantially reduce haze between cemented elements.  But, please see the disclaimer at the end of this article.

The procedure.

The recommended procedure consists of heating the glued pair of elements in an ordinary kitchen oven at 325F (163C) for 30 minutes, letting it cool down slowly on its own, and then repeating the procedure twice more.  Then wait for a few days to see if the lens clears.  It it doesn’t, you should repeat the process again.

My Experience.

So, I basically followed the procedure exactly.  I used a thermocouple at the lens position in the oven to monitor the temperature just out of curiosity.  I preheated the oven to 325F (183C), placed the lens pair, complete with the metal collar, in a small shallow metal cookie pan and placed the pan in the middle of the oven’s center rack.  The thermocouple indicated an initial temp after preheat of 377F, but after that it varied between 309F (154C) and 352F (178C).  Half an hour later, I turned off the heat and let it cool for several hours.  After two heat cycles, the lens was still cloudy, but after the third cycle, the lens had cleared.  The milky haze was gone.

The next day I repeated the procedure with the front pair of cemented elements and the milky haze disappeared after the first cycle.  Why it cleared quicker, I don’t know.  Maybe it had less fog or maybe the oven was a little hotter for some reason.  In any case, for this pair I was astute enough to take before and after pictures (scroll down).

The Results.

The bottom line is that this simple process has the ability to substantially reduce haze without doing any perceptible damage to the coating or the mechanical mounting.  Is it a miracle cure?  No, although at first I thought I thought it was.  The haze was originally pretty bad on my lens and there remains, on the rear pair of elements, a slight bluish cast to the lens if you shine an LED flashlight through it.  That residual haze is enough to lower the contrast of the resulting negatives.  The front elements cleared almost completely.  It seems likely that the less severe the haze, the less residual haze there will be after the treatment.

This may not be the end of the story.  The residual haze may continue to clear after the heat treatment.  I plan to let it sit for some weeks or months and then reevaluate whether to subject it to a longer heat cycle or retreat it at a higher temp.

Pictures!

Rear Cemented Element Pair Module

Front Cemented Element Pair Module

Front Pair BEFORE Treatment

Front Pair AFTER Treatment

Front Pair BEFORE Treatment

Front Pair AFTER Treatment

The Inevitable Disclaimer

Don’t do this to a lens you can’t afford to destroy.  I exhausted other avenues of repair before doing this, so I considered this an option of last resort.  Having now done it, I think the risk is pretty low, but not zero.  Just because a few people made it across the mine field doesn’t mean you will.  Be careful not to subject the lens to sharp temperature changes by placing it directly on a hot surface.

Note that other forms of lens cement will probably not respond well to this technique, but decades old lenses that use Canada balsam are fair game.

References.

See the entire Photrio thread here.

ZoneMaster II Button Replacement

ZM_1_small

           RH Designs ZoneMaster II

I have had an RH Designs ZoneMaster II enlarging meter for years that I use regularly.  A few weeks ago I noticed that one of the buttons had become unreliable.  I had to press it hard several times to get it to work.  Since I am in the US and RH Designs is in the UK, I decided to try and fix it myself.  As it turned out, that was not terribly difficult.

I should note that electronics has been both a hobby and career for me, so I am used to working on electronics circuits.  If you are not comfortable doing simple electronics repair work, you might not want to attempt this.  If you decide to go for it, you can reduce the risk of damage by using an anti-static wrist strap.

SKHHBWA010

             ALPS SKHHBWA010

I can’t say precisely what button was used in the manufacture of the ZoneMaster II, but  ALPS makes a close match.  The ALPS part number is SKHHBWA010.  I ordered  from Mouser at $0.15 each plus a small shipping fee. To see an accurate picture of the switch you may have to click on the data sheet rather than relying on the representative illustration shown on the website.

The ZoneMaster can be disassembled by removing the four black Phillips head screws on the bottom and carefully separating the top and bottom of the clam shell box..  I recommend checking to make sure the power switch is turned off and then removing the battery.

Open Clam Shell Box

                                                  Open Clam Shell Box

The circuit board is held in place by three short Phillips Head screws, one in each corner.  Be careful not to accidentally damage the push-button power switch.  Jewelers screwdrivers come in handy at this point.

Circuit board removed from box

                                Circuit board removed from box

Carefully work the circuit board out of the plastic box and turn it over to see the buttons.  To remove the buttons you will need a small soldering iron (25-50W or so) and either a “solder sucker” or some solder wick.  Flip the circuit board back over and desolder the faulty button.  The molten solder can be sucked off with the solder sucker or soaked up with the solder wick.  Being too rough or using too much heat for too long can damage the fragile copper traces on the printed circuit.  After removing the solder, use small needle nose pliers or tweezers to work the pins loose so the button can be removed.

Faulty button removed

                                           Faulty button removed (yellow circle)

The new button is a match for the old faulty one and seems to require very similar operating force.  The “click” sound made by the new button is a little different, although certainly not enough to matter to me.

New button is on left, old on right

                                New button is on left, old on right

The hole pattern for the switch is rectangular, so it can be installed in two ways.  Since the pins are symmetrical, it doesn’t matter which way you install it.  Be sure to press it all the way into the holes on the circuit board and solder all four pins.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.  Be careful not to strip out the holes in the plastic box when reinstalling the screws and remember to reinstall the battery before buttoning everything up.  It might not be a bad time to replace the battery while you have everything apart.

If everything went well, you didn’t ruin your very expensive enlarging meter.

UPDATE (1/7/21):  The post above was written in October 2016.  I had to replace another button (the down arrow) in January 2021.  Luckily, I ordered extra buttons in 2016, so I didn’t need to order again.  I am not a heavy user of this meter, but tiny buttons are commonly a weak point in electronic designs.  If this is all that ever goes wrong with this meter, I will be happy.